Oh Canada...as the anthem goes

At the Fairmont Downtown and doing the final pack...feeling gloomy. The last couple of days in the City have been great. The hotel is superb and has been a great spot to finish up. Have walked pretty much all over Downtown and on to Stanley Park. Last night we went to see the BC Lions v Sascatchewan Roughriders...and BC got their first home win of the year!

So Canada, thank you for

Friendly and welcoming Customs and Border staff (USA take note!)
Amazing variety of scenery...and scale that defies belief
Great food along the way...especially lobster and steak !
Good roads (mostly) and considerate drivers who give bikers space (mostly). In fact my only scrape was when Slo reversed into me in week 1 ! Compared to the South Circular it's a pleasure to ride here.

Most of all though the people. Everywhere we've been greeted by warm, friendly interesting folks. People who will just walk over to you, spend time and share stories. People who seem to have a great pride in their Country and are delighted that we spent time visiting. I'd recommend Canada to any traveller...and would come back in a heartbeat.

And finally to my travelling companion SLO. Thanks for comitting to the trip and never faltering; for the great company and for helping me ride safe...I learned a lot from your skill and experience on the bike.

Slainte. JJ

Last day in Canada

Well we finally head homewards this evening. Discussing the trip with JJ over breakfast we talked about the best and worst points of the trip. It's impossible to choose one or two, or even three of the best parts. So, let's do it the other way around. The worst points: Not many. The GPS (Garmin Zumo) without a shadow of a doubt is a piece of crap, unreliable, inconsistant and slow - and tthose are only its good points. The locks on the BMW luggage (they didn't). Port Hawkesbury, NS : we stayed at an expensive hotel in the middle (which is little more than an industrial estate). Penticton: a blackpool on steriods - the bad kind..... And that's about it.

The best. Way too many to mention. The Candians: absolutely wonderful people: kind, interesting, friendly - every other day we met people that you would proudly call friends. The scenery: as well as being vast, Canada is a beautiful country, from the east coast to the west. Every day I was in awe at its sheer spleandor. Photos cannot do it justice. The ride: spending several hours a day on the bike, feeling, smelling, interacting with the countryside. Probably the best way to see the country. The bike. The BMW R1200GSA (paniers aside) never missed a beat. Superb bike. And I suppose I should mention JJ. He's been the perfect travel companion - I don't think that we've argued once (in fact I know that we haven't). We've been friends for about 10 years - and long may it continue.

So what can I say? Come to Canada - you willl not be disappointed. I can't wait to return :)

Slo

Splashdown!! Houston the eagle has landed

That's it then. Got 'r' done. Slo and JJ splashdown in the pacific at 1030 local time. "We don't know why the surfers are in wetsuits. Seems quite warm" JJ commented.



JJ smells his armpits after 6 weeks on the road. "I guess I should have packed the Right Guard"


Slo kills local marine life. Should have showered beforehand.


We're back in Vancouver. Bikes get packed and shipped tomorrow, we get packed and shipped on Saturday. We had a great run over the island mountains, very twisty and very very bumpy. Great fun. But we missed the ferry by about 30 seconds. Two hour wait, but some very nice people to chat to.....



Hope you enjoyed the blog. We certainly enjoyed the trip. It was absolutely fantastic :) No. That doesn't even start to describe this trip.......

Slainte
Slo

Ucluelet II - Now it's natural

We actually took in some nature, on foot at 3mph rather than at 70..

Dali had already been to Ucluelet....


We tried chatting to the locals, but the were offended by my accent, or chat up lines.....



There are a lot of sunken ships out there...



JJ heard that there are beers in the wood ....



Having a relaxed afternoon with a bear......



Slo

Ucluelet (you-clue-let) Vancouver Island

That's it then. All over bar the shouting - and celebratory drink ;) We're as far west as we plan to be - for a while anyway. Originally we were heading to Tofino, but ended up 30 miles south at Ucluelet. For once it wasn't the fault of the GPS. Although, JJ is getting a contant white screen on his.....

After a relaxing day spent in the city of Vancouver (so relaxing that I forgot to take any pictures) and then an evening spent tango-ing, we hopped on the ferry from Horseshoe Bay (West Vancouver) to Nanaimo on Vancouver Island.

JJ corners a fellow passenger to show off his accountancy skills

Leaving Horseshoe Bay aboard the ferry to Vancouver Island

Vancouver city from the west


Vancouver Island. Slo manages to ruin a perfectly good view. Again.


The road through the middle of Vancouver Island to Ucluelet. JJ thinks that he's spotted a discarded beer at the other side of the lake...




We're planning to spend a couple of nights here appreciating the views over the Pacific :)

Slo

Wild wild west

We've done it. And we're a bit disappointed. Not with the trip, but that it wont take us longer. We still plan to go further west to Vancouver Island, but basically we've ridden the width of the second largest country in the world. And we want more........ Over the last couple of days I feel that we've both become a bit contemplative. Five and a half thousand miles inside a helmet with only yourself as company. You get a lot of time to think...

JJ asked me a strange question last night over dinner (and a couple of beers) "What would you change about the trip?". "Nothing". I have truly enjoyed every mile. Even the not being able to see the road for monsoon rain in Vermont.

Anyway, that's maybe a little premature, we haven't paddled in the Pacific yet. That's planned for Tuesday. Just now we are luxuriating in the Fairmont, downtown Vancouver. Which was a strange introduction to the city in itself. Once we hit the city limits, we rode through a really deprived area full of junkies queuing for their fix from a drug store. 1.5km later we're sitting having a beer in the Fairmont in an area resembling 5th Avenue. Go figure.


We were glad to leave Penticton and head west, up and over the mountains and through a canyon road. At last we found some truly twisty roads :)





We received a comment from Michael suggesting that we could save time by just photgraphing our drinks - as the scenery would last longer than what we were consuming. So, Michael, especially for you...


I've decided not to tango this evening. It turned out to be quite a ride. So just a couple of beers....

Slo

Paradise Ruined

And not by the beer. Well, maybe it is.....

Going back a couple of days, we left Jasper and headed to Clearwater. It was a slow start, having visited a rather good micro-brewery. As an aside. What should beer taste like? I've always thought beer. But this is now the second time it's happened. The first was in New Orleans, several years ago. They had banana beer, which, for some reason, they were proud of. In Jasper, they had blueberry-vanilla beer. Tasted like blueberry ice-cream. WHY?! Okay, hands up. Who wants blueberry-vanilla beer? You, at the back, please leave the room..... Barring this, and their attempt at stout, the other beers were great.....



Mount Robson, the Rockies highest peak


Heading south from Clearwater, we started to see, some thinning of the tree line cause by fires.


Heading down Lake Okanagan, the scenes were breathtaking. The road rose and fell along the shoreline offering spectacular views. We finally reached Penticton. Which is situated at the south of the lake. Stunning.


Picturesque

Ruined. Like a Blackpool on steriods. A Daytona Beach easter weekend.


We check into our accommodation at Penticton....



Today is a beautiful day, we were told of a great biking road over to Vancouver, and I'm going to a milonga this evening. It doesn't get any better :) I think JJ is donning his chaps and heading to a western bar ;)

Slo

Hotter than a snakes ass in a wagon rut

Last night was spent at Clearwater, about half way between Jasper and Penticton, where we currently reside, in a pool of sweat. It was reading 40 on the way down, except it was on the way up..... The ride down the Okanagan Lake is spectacular, but to tell you the truth it was just too damn hot to stop and take photos. Well, actually, the road runs against the lake and the traffic was very heavy (it's a holiday weekend) and I didn't fancy running across the highway just for a couple of snaps. So, I'll take some this evening and post tomorrow morning. I promise. Unless any of the three micro-breweries are any good, and then you may have to wait. Again.

Slo

Not so small details...

I hope you've all been enjoying the pics and descriptions of where we've been...and what we've drunk ! In addition to these larger 'views' of the trip I did wonder if any of you would be interested in some of the details...things that can be every bit as important ? Take my underpants...

Some days ago I was searching the panniers for fresh underwear to discover the stock of 'cleans' dangerously low. The options were to hand wash or run over to the Wal-Mart buy a pack then grab a beer from the bar next door. Anyway...beer and new pants it was. The pack described these 'briefs' as MEDIUM for waist 30 to 32 inches...perfect. The reality is they are more like the emergency pants BA give you when they've lost your luggage...bloody huge !!

Nothing for it though but to make use of them (Slo had purchased also). Slo has a pair of braces which helps. He's decided that after each single use to discard said garments at various hotels across Western Canada. I've decided to hang on to mine in case we run short of gas and can strap them to the bikes as a sail.

Watch out all who shop at Wal-Mart !

Anyway, enough of this. I need to go find a pair so we can get to the pub !

JJ

"Git R Dun"

Up early this morning and a sad farewell to Kim and to Cochrane. Thanks so much for putting up with us the last few days. It was lovely to see you and your gang...some great memories...baseball tournament in the garden, Calgary Tower, Banff, shots in the Magpie & Stump and George dancing Tango in the park surrounded by skateboard kids ! I hope the smell of stale biker fades quickly from the basement !

We had it on good authority (Kim) that the above phrase was the Western Canadien equivalent of 'Just Do It'. You can buy all kinds of stuff (shirts, t-shirts, belt buckles...etc) to convince people you are 'getting R done' ! Not sure how this would go down in Blighty...maybe I misunderstood...Kim ?

Anyway Slo and I headed out from Cochrane and today rode the length of both Banff and Jasper National Parks...spectacular.

We 'Got R Done'

JJ

now that's what I call mountains

Well, ok, not this. This is Bow River Falls in Banff.




Then we headed to Jasper....

I'm not nearly eloquent enough to describe the beauty of the Rockies and, as far as I'm concerned, there is one button on a camera. So there is no way any of my photos can do justice to the place either. All I can say is that it is truly spectacular and, although the day started grey and cold and threatening rain. The JJ jinx worked and we were bathed in sunshine for most of the journey and it was a fantastic ride. My breath has most definitely been taken from me.

Lake Louise



Just a bit further along the road to Jasper




Nice road with the scent of burning brakes from all the cars going downhill ;)


Columbia Ice fields




Yes, we can still muck up a perfectly good photo..


Slo

back in the saddle

We took our bikes in to get serviced and some new tyres (of the round, not square, variety) at Blackfoot BMW Calgary. I'm impressed: friendly, efficient and on time. However, I didn't like being charged $140 to fit the tyres! nor the fact that they didn't clean the bikes ;) Although, I suppose, neither did we..........

So it was grey and miserable on the way into town (rain) and very gentle going on the way back - thanks to said new shiny boots. We're heading up to Jasper tomorrow, I think that we may be taking it easy......

So last night at Kim's. A million thanks for putting up with two less-than-immaculately-smelling bikers and the use of your washing machine and the beer and for driving us about :) Quiet meal and an early start tomorrow.....Now where have I heard that before?

Slo

Banff

It's strange travelling without the bike. The roads feel different, the passing trucks don't have the same impact (as it were). On the bikes, when a truck passes at 85, you get blown around like a rag doll, in a car, you barely notice. The drive up to Banff is beautiful. Strange being on a four-lane highway in the mountains. And being charged $40 to enter the rockies seems bizarre, but, whatever....


Walking around the town offers spectacular views, regardless of the gormless tourists who get in front of the camera....


We stayed at the Banff Springs. A small, understated B and B. To tell the truth, I wouldn't stay there again.... although they do make a mean mojito....







Haunting old haunts. JJ and Kim let me into an old watering hole of 22 years ago. We went in a lunchtime for a cold one. Unfortunately, it started raining and we were compelled to stay for a couple more. Even more unfortunately, the bar manager decided that what we really needed was a few shots. It turned kind of pear-shaped after that.....


After a litre of water and a quick hour in jaccuzi, I was right as rain, so we headed out for dinner. A bison steak and elk rib. Excellent.

This morning were are sitting having a coffee, waiting for the Greyhound back into Calgary. There is a milonga (tango) this evening and then I'm hoping we find a proper western bar (JJ wants to try line dancing now that he has bought some chaps ;)

Slo

Calgary and Cochrane

We've been off the bikes since arriving at Kim's on Thursday. My bike needs it's 6,000 mile service and the first slot available at BMW Calgary is Tuesday. But this is proving a very enjoyable break from the three and a half weeks on the bike.

Our first (misty) view of the rockies....

On Friday we headed into Calgary for a, much needed, massage. I've had a sports massage before, but this one was executed by a physiotherapist - she could really inflict, I mean give a good massage. I've still got the bruises........ In the evening we settled down at a fire and made spiders dogs (split hot dogs).

Saturday was bright and sunny (again :) so after a fast and furious baseball game we headed to the Calgary Tower.....



Nice views....



The reason that we are looking slightly apprehensive is that we are standing on a glass viewing floor.


You get a bit of a ground rush looking down. Yes, that's Tim's feet and 524 feet below him is the street


We then headed to Banff.....

Slo

Alberta

How big is Canada anyway? We're running out of provinces. Only one after this one..... It was good to reach Alberta. Everyone. And I mean everyone. Everyone said how boring the prairies would be. As we sit with Kim (JJ's friend from his first trip to Canada) sipping fine whisky (yes, we found an Oban ;) the rockies are in view. We have ridden the full width of the prairies and enjoyed every moment. Really. To get some perspective of size everyone should do this. Fantastic. But the start of Alberta isn't the end of the prairies. There's more...




We headed headed for Medicine Hat, as there would be a short hop to Calgary (Cochrane) from here.


Unfortunately the visitor's centre was closed at 5. Why? It's not like Medicine Hat is 5 minutes down the road from anywhere. Basically there's not much between Regina and Medicine Hat and Medicine Hat and Calgary. That means that you have to drive for a while.. You know what I mean. So 5pm is a bit early. ... Anyway

So, as per usual here we were supping on a well earned cold one, chatting to the barmaid. She asked us if we were in town for the stampede. No. Did we know that Glen Campbell was playing? Yes, we said, we travelled 4000 miles across Canada to see Glen Campbell. Well actually we didn't. But I was brought up with Glen Campbell - well his music - so jumping at the chance, we headed to the stampede. It was fantastic. On returning to the motel I texted my mum. She responded with 'Oh. I thought he was dead'.

Heading to Cochrane, JJ finally realises where west is....
x

JJ trying to decide on club choice on the tricky 18th hole at the Prairies Old Course. The par 5000 requires a solid drive to give a good approach.


After 1,500 miles across the prairies, JJ and Slo come across a bend in the road and have to consult the motorcycle handbook for advice....



Finally, as we cross Calgary, on the way to Cochrane, cresting a hill, JJ feels the need to point at very large rock formation in the distance. That will be the rockies then...... WooHoo! (although I think I did recognise them...)

Slo

For not very inquisitive ones

Just to let everyone know (as it may not be obvious) JJ has managed to post his previous post as well (the one written some time ago) - it's from 17/07 and you can check it out here: 'tinterweb...and all that !'

G

When's a lock not a lock?

From JJ's post (finally, Hurrah!) It reminded me of something else....

When it's a BMW pannier lock. I've found out that the problem with the pannier was that you can turn it to 'locked' position and remove the key. Unfortunately, for 3 of the 8 locks, with the key removed you can simple turn them to the unlocked position. Interesting concept, but I don't think that it'll catch on......

I'm looking forward to another day (and a bit) of riding straight roads til we get to Calgary - after some hard miles a few days agao dancing between trucks, these are very relaxing...

Slo

The bikes

Wednesday morning and woke to yet another huge blue sky over Regina SK. Weather has been great the last week and the forecast in Western Canada for the next week is sun. Sitting on top of a 1200 fully kitted out and weighing in at around 300kg...you sweat a bit ! Still...way better then riding in the driving rain we got in Vermont.

Ride 5 hours or so to Medicine Hat today then on to Calgary tomorrow. Spending the weekend with a great friend of mine, Kim. Not sure she's going to be prepared for 2 smelly bikers arriving at the house. If she has any sense we'll be confined to the garage!

Bikes have been running great. Burning a little oil as expected but not excessive. We've both had false alarms from the tyre pressure sensors. Irritating and a little disturbing when it happens at 70mph. We've done around 4000 miles on the trip so far so they need a service and are booked in to BMW in Calgary. Most pressing need is for 2 new sets of tyres. With all the straight roads the last 10 days we've flattend the tread out. They look more like car tyres now !

Need to get on with the morning pack. I might even figure out how to publish today's pics when we reach the hotel tonight...bye for now.

JJ

I was wrong

North

South

East


West


The sky across Manitoba isn't big. Well, actually it is, it's just that the sky over Saskatchewan is absolutely bloody massive. You start to get a real sense of insignificance when you find yourself on a road that disappears into the horizon. In both directions. You look left : infinity. Right : the same. It's wonderful :) Over the last two days I think that I've turned the handlebars half a dozen times, of which 4 of these were in/out of hotels..... We've both really enjoyed this riding. OKay, not your classic twisties, but it's a fantastic way to see this country, seeing, smelling, feeling the environment which, cooped up in a tin box, you would totally miss. The cross winds can be a bit interesting too ;)

JJ, west is the OTHER direction mate


Lennon and McCartney were wrong...It's a long and straight



Slo